Food

  • Apr 1
    2010
    Alabama's Gourmet Goat Cheese
      in food

    Alabama’s own gourmet goat cheese

    Get a taste of a nationally acclaimed creamery in Birmingham’s backyard.

    BY MARTI KILPATRICK
    PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT RAUSCH

    Down awinding dirt path outside of Huntsville, a small group of artisans spend their days hand-rolling goat cheese in the humble building that houses Belle Chèvre creamery. Here in unassuming Elkmont, Alabama, owner Tasia Malakasis oversees the production of cheese that is nationally renowned.

    “I have a product in Dean & Deluca in Manhattan and Piggly Wiggly in Elkmont,” she says of the company’s broad reach. This democratization of goat cheese is a main tenet of Tasia’s business and stems from her infectious enthusiasm.

    Approachability is a defining trait of this goat cheese CEO, who wants you to know that the creamery doors are open—and that ‘chèvre’ rhymes with ‘rev.’ Much has beenmade of Tasia’s storybook transition from software marketing manager to goat cheese doyenne, perhaps in part because of the perfectly plotted turning point in her journey. After picking up Belle Chèvre at a Dean & Deluca in New York and realizing it was made on the outer limits of Huntsville, her hometown, Tasia felt compelled to act. She courted the owner of the creamery and eventually ended up purchasing the business.

    Now, with a 20-year anniversary behind it, Belle Chèvre is no longer primarily a staid French fromagerie. The company’s line of award-winning goat cheese has grown to include playful products, such as the “Southern Belle” (bourbon pecan- and mintencrusted goat cheese) and the “Belle and the Bees Breakfast Cheese,” which features honey from the Savannah Bee company.

    “What’s different about us is that we do this with a sense of humor,” says Tasia. “But the product is serious.” Proof is in the honors that keep coming: awards from industry organizations like the American Cheese Society number in the 50s.
    At the moment, Tasia is dreaming big, looking to expand the creamery with plans for a rural, timber-frame goat cheese complex, potentially including a new creamery, barn, store and learning center. She plans to widen distribution as well and admits to being rather persistent.

    After all, she’s accustomed to winning folks over with her affable personality—her current sales manager became a goat cheese convert and ended up at the company after Tasia convinced her to take a taste of Belle Chèvre. Next Tasia plans to court larger grocery stores. “If they hesitate to carry Belle Chèvre, I’ll just get them to taste it next to the other goat cheeses at the store,” she says with a mischievous smile that belies the intensity behind the statement.

    Her job will not be done until America appreciates goat cheese as much as the ubiquitous pasteurized orange stuff. And for Tasia, that mission starts not in Manhattan or France, but at the end of the dirt path in North Alabama. If you don’t believe her, those creamery doors are open and waiting.
     

    Goat Cheese-and-Olive-Stuffed Chicken Breasts
    6 kalamata or other brine-cured black olives
    1 oz. soft mild goat cheese (about 2 tbsp.)
    1⁄2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
    1⁄4 tsp. salt
    1⁄4 tsp. pepper
    2 boneless chicken breast halves with skin
    1 tsp. vegetable oil
    Preheat oven to 300°. Pit and thinly slice olives. In a small bowl, stir together olives, goat cheese, thyme, and salt and pepper to taste until combined well. Pat chicken dry and season with salt and pepper.

    Slice a pocket in each chicken breast by horizontally inserting a thin knife through 3⁄4 of the center of the meat and gently sawing until a pocket is formed. Divide, filling evenly between pockets. Pat chicken dry and season with salt and pepper. In a small, heavy ovenproof skillet, heat oil over moderately high heat and brown chicken, skin sides down, about 2 minutes. Turn chicken over and brown about 2 minutes more. Transfer skillet to middle of oven and bake chicken until cooked through, about 15 minutes. Greek Kiss: a banon wrapped in a brined Greek grape leaf.

    Goat Cheese Chocolate Truffles
    6 oz. fine-quality bittersweet chocolate
    (not unsweetened), chopped
    6 oz. fromage blanc
    2 tbsp. confectioners' sugar
    1⁄2 tsp. vanilla extract
    1⁄8 tsp. pure lemon extract
    1⁄4 c. unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted
    In a metal bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, melt the chocolate, stirring until it is smooth. Remove the bowl from the pan and let the chocolate cool slightly.
    In a bowl, whisk together cheese, confectioners' sugar, vanilla and lemon extract until the mixture is light and fluffy.Whisk in the chocolate until the mixture is combined well and chill the mixture, covered, for 1 hour, or until firm. Form heaping teaspoons of the mixture into balls, and roll the balls in the cocoa powder.
    Chill the truffles on a baking sheet lined with waxed paper for 30 minutes, or until firm. The truffles keep in an airtight container, chilled, for 3 days.

    Caramelized Onion-Goat Cheese Bruschetta
    2 tbsp. butter
    3 onions, sliced
    Salt and pepper to taste
    1⁄2 c. balsamic vinegar
    4 oz. goat cheese
    8-10 baguette slices, toasted
    Melt butter over medium heat. Add onions, stirring to coat. Turn heat to medium low and cook for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.
    Meanwhile, simmer balsamic vinegar over medium heat until reduced by half. Let cool.
    Spread goat cheese over baguette slices. Top with onions, and drizzle with balsamic vinegar reduction. Southern Belle: chevre with bourbon-soaked pecans, fresh mint and course sugar
    Hand-rolled logs (or buche)
     

    by Abigail Millwood 

    Leave a Comment
  • Feb 1
    2010
    On the FLIPside
      in food

    On the FLIPside
    A new restaurant in Birmingham defines “fine dining between two buns.”
    BY SARAH BRUEGGEMANN | PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB CULPEPPER

    A recent addition to the Summit’s restaurant options, FLIP Burger Boutique is a far cry from McDonald’s fare. “The concept is so approachable, yet even burgers can be elevated to gourmet status,” says owner and creative director Richard Blais. With high-end ingredients and an emphasis on organic, farm-fresh produce, FLIP proves that the simplest food often provides the most innovative inspiration.
         A popular contestant on Bravo’s Top Chef Season 4, Richard is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. His resume includes a stint as chef de partie at the famed Restaurant Daniel in New York and at the celebrated French Laundry in California’s Napa Valley. After moving to Atlanta in 2001, he opened his eponymous restaurant, Blais, to critical acclaim. Now, Richard has partnered with Ron Stewart and Barry Mills to build a better burger. FLIP’s
    success started in Atlanta, where it merited a four-star rating and a cultish following. The expansion to Birmingham is the first in an effort to take FLIP nationally.
         Fifteen to 20 different burgers typically appear on the menu, which rotates out a collection of around 30 different recipes. The beef, a house-ground mix of short ribs, hangar steak and brisket, makes these burgers much juicier than ones made with leaner meat. The best-selling burger is the FLIP, with traditional toppings such as onion, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and the secret FLIP sauce. But diners who venture into gourmet territory are rewarded with such inventive dishes as the Korean b-b-que and the steak tartare burgers. “There’s logic and culinary sense behind everything we do,” says Richard. “We don’t just throw a dart at a bunch of ingredients. There is a lot of thought put into every item on the menu.”
         For example, the wild turkey burger is paired with Benton’s bacon, Gouda, cranberry scallion relish and a smear of smoked mayonnaise. Micro greens, sour apples and Brussels slaw are artfully stacked upon a jumbo-lump crab cake. Other inspired creations include the Philly, steak tartare, ossobuco, faux-lafel and chorizo burgers. For the Southern burger, Richard says, “I thought, ‘Why can’t you make the bun a biscuit and batter the meat?’ ” Pimento cheese, b&b pickles and sausage gravy cover the chicken-fried beef patty.
         For non-beef eaters, there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian burger options plus caesar, thai-bouleh, five bean, and other salads. Condiments that arouse curiosity such as “cajunaise,” raisin ketchup, and blue cheese foam are all made in house. Also made at the restaurant are the fluffy, buttery brioche buns. Seasoned hand-cut French fries, vodka-battered onion rings and sweet potato fries are essential accompaniments to the meal. And no visit is complete without trying Richard’s molecular gastronomy.
         “FLIP is the world’s only liquid nitrogen milkshake bar,” says Richard. “But we don’t just use it for theater. Nitrogen freezes things really quickly so ice crystals don’t develop. You get a semi-glacial level on top with creamy gelato in the middle of the shake.” Flavors of the decadent treats include s’mores, pistachio with white truffle, and Krispy Kreme, which perfectly captures the essence of the famous glazed donut. The most surprising—and sinfully delicious—concoction features foie gras and tastes like vanilla laced with amaretto. Mist trailing from the glass evaporates as the milkshake is brought to the table.
         That sense of drama is carried throughout the restaurant’s décor. A massive graffiti mural with white swirls printed over bold pop culture imagery looms high overhead. Behind the bar, where guests can watch the fast-paced action of the open kitchen, fanciful Baroque frames hold two flat screen TVs and a middle mirror. A center row of clean-lined tabletops is punctuated by red napkins and underlined by a long red carpet. The plush white leather booths—with matching tables and seating flipped upside down from the ceiling to play on the restaurant’s name—would look at home in A Clockwork Orange’s Milk Bar.
         “Some people have said that the concept won’t work here,” Richard remarked prior to the restaurant’s opening. “But I think Birmingham will respond.” So far, the Magic City has responded to FLIP with a resounding yes. On a Monday at 11:15 a.m., there’s already a line of people quickly filtering into booths, communal dining tables, and the bar. The atmosphere is lively and enthusiastic. “It’s about the experience,” says Richard. “I want customers to walk away saying, ‘That was fun!’ ” 

    Try one of Richard’s tasty gourmet creations at home with this recipe for FLIP Burger Boutique’s Turkey Burger

    Ingredients:
    5 oz. free range organic turkey (ground)
    ¼ tsp. kosher salt
    ¼ tsp. kosher pepper
    1 tbsp. POM juice
    2 tbsp. ketchup
    1 avocado
    ¼ tsp. salt
    ½ fresh lime
    bean sprouts
    1 tsp. olive oil
    1 tsp. red wine vinegar
    1 tomato slice (optional)

    Turn stove on high heat. Press the 5-oz. patty into a 3.5-inch ring mold. Season both sides lightly with kosher salt and pepper. Sear the outside hard, then leave on skillet and cook at medium heat until patty reaches 165º.
         While patty is cooking, prepare pomegranate ketchup by adding POM juice to a separate skillet and simmering over low heat until reduced to syrup. Remove 1 tbsp. POM syrup and mix with 2 tbsp. ketchup. Spread across bottom of bun.
         To prepare avocado puree, combine one avocado (seed removed and taken from peel), ¼ tsp. salt, and the juice from ½ fresh lime in a bowl. Using your hands, crush to a chunky consistency. Set bowl to
    the side.
    In a separate bowl, toss bean sprouts with 1 tsp. of olive oil and 1 tsp. red wine vinegar. This is to be done right before use. At this point your patty should be cooked through.
         To build the perfect burger follow this sequence: bottom of bun, pomegranate ketchup, turkey patty, slice of tomato (optional), avocado puree, bean sprouts, top of bun.


    For more information on FLIP, visit flipburgerboutique.com. To learn more about Richard, visit trailblais.com.
     

    by Abigail Millwood 

    Leave a Comment
  • Dec 31
    2009
    Not Your Mother's Wedding Cake
      in food

    Not Your Mother's Wedding Cake

    Showcase your personal taste with these unique reception treats.

    PHOTOGRAPHY BY COREY NOLEN | STYLING BY LANE GREGORY

     

     

    Build a tower of individual-size baby bites by Pastry Art. These tiny tastes of heaven also fit into tidy little to-go boxes for a delicious post-wedding snack.
    PASTRYART
    1927 29TH AVE. S.
    HOMEWOOD,AL 35209
    205.345.6789 • PASTRYARTCAKES.COM
       

    Treat guests to a gourmet candy buffet with all your favorites—truffles, chocolate-covered malted milkballs, jellybeans, white chocolate pretzels andmore.
    SOHO SWEETS
    1830 29TH AVE. S.
    HOMEWOOD,AL 35209
    205.871.4420 • SOHOSWEETS.COM

     

     

    Craving something savory and sweet? Design your own dessert by stacking brie and cheesecake. Decorate with pecans and dried cranberries, and crown with satsumas or other seasonal fruit.
    SAM’SCLUB
    201 LAKESHORE DR.
    HOMEWOOD, AL 35209
    205.941.3326 • SAMSCLUB.COM


    Surprise guests with a three-tier sushi“cake.” Tuna, California (crab, cucumber and avocado) and summer (salmon, goatcheese, arugula and green apple) rolls are layered between fresh tuna and yellowtail. The artful creation is sure to make your event memorable.
    MAKI FRESH
    2800 CAHABA VILLAGE PLZ.,STE.145
    BIRMINGHAM, AL 35243
    205.970.3242 • MAKIFRESH.COM
     


     

     

    by Abigail Millwood 

    Leave a Comment
  • Nov 18
    2009
    Sweet Tooth
      in food

    Sweet Tooth

    PORTICO rounds up the recipes of some of Birmingham's favorite delicious desserts

    BY JENNY ADAMS
    (from December 2008)

    Urban Standard's Red Velvet Cupcakes

             Tom Wizesien cooked up the idea for Urban Standard on 2nd Avenue North as an art studio originally. He decided to sell coffee, and from there it morphed into a full-fledged café.
             "We serve only cupcakes and cookies to keep things simple," explains assistant manager Eric Kendrick. "(That way) we can focus on the quality of the pastries and not quantity."
             Tom's cupcakes have become legendary. As a friend frequently reminds me, "cupcakes are like a tiny birthday party you can have anytime you want, and Urban's are the best."

    Recipe:
    1 1/2 cups sugar
    2 cups oil
    2 eggs
    4T red food coloring
    1 tsp. cocoa
    1 tsp. vinegar
    1 cup buttermilk
    2 1/2 cups plain flour
    1 tsp. salt
    1 tsp. soda
    1 tsp. vanilla

    Beat sugar and oil in a mixing bowl until blended. Mix in eggs. Add food coloring, cocoa and vinegar, and mix until stiff. Add buttermilk. Mix in flour, salt, soda and vanilla. Portion batter into cupcake tins. Bake at 350º for 13 to 14 minutes in convection oven.

    For the Icing:
    1 stick of butter, softened
    8 oz. cream cheese
    1lb. box confectioner's sugar


    Prairie Fire Grille's White Chocolate Bread Pudding

             The White Chocolate Bread Pudding has been on the menu at Prairie Fire Grille for more than six years. Although the topping has been updated, the original recipe remains, clinching the top spot of all desserts offered here.
    "We have guests that come in from all over the world to experience this little gem," says executive chef Shannon Nicholson. "It is a real pleasure to watch someone take their first bite. It brings a smile to my face every time."

    Recipe:
    1 1/2 loaves of white bread, crust removed
    12 egg yolks
    1 cup sugar
    1 qt. heavy cream
    1/2 qt. half and half
    1/2 tsp. vanilla flavoring
    18 oz. white chocolate chips

    For the Topping:
    2 cups graham cracker crumbs
    1/2 lb. brown sugar
    1 tsp. cinnamon
    1/2 cup cocoa powder
    1/2 cup melted butter

    In a greased 9x13-inch baking dish, place bread three layers thick. Trim as necessary. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until bright yellow. Heat the cream, half and half, and vanilla until it begins to boil. Add white chocolate chips to egg mixture and stir in hot cream until the chocolate melts. Pour mixture over the bread, making sure to manipulate mixture to soak every layer. Let stand 20 minutes, and then add topping.

    Topping:
    Mix ingredients well. Spread the topping evenly over the surface. Let the pudding stand for 15 minutes before placing it into the oven. Bake at 400º for 25 minutes.


    Little Savannah's Espresso Crème Brûlée

             Sitting at one of the iron tables on the sidewalk of Clairmont Avenue and watching people walk by is one of the reasons that folks flock to Little Savannah. The space blends Southern cuisine with a hint of France. The dessert list changes frequently, and seasonal ingredients reflect the holidays in the crème brûlée. This winter, the warmth and aroma of espresso wafts in the air.

    Recipe:
    1 qt heavy whipping cream
    1 vanilla pod, split lengthways
    1/4 cup coarsely ground espresso coffee
    8 egg yolks
    1/2 cup granulated sugar

    Warm the cream in a saucepan with the vanilla pod and coffee, but do not boil. Meanwhile, beat egg yolks with sugar until creamy, approximately 2 minutes. Pour warm cream over egg mixture, then pour through a medium-mesh strainer and into ramekins. Place in a deep baking dish half filled with water. Bake for 40-50 minutes at 350º or until set. When ready to serve, top with unrefined sugar and caramelize with a brûlée torch.


    Hot & Hot Fish Club's Madeleines with Dulce de Leche

             Chef Chris Hastings has helped put Birmingham on the map in a culinary sense. The menu feature his beloved tastes of South Carolina, and the convivial atmosphere is hard to beat. These madeleines make nice additions to holiday gatherings.

    Recipe:
    1/2 cup plus 2 2/3 T. unsalted butter, at room temperature
    3/4 cup superfine sugar
    3 large eggs
    1 large egg yolk
    1 cup plus 4 tsp. cake flour
    1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract

    Dulce De Leche:
    1 qt. whole milk
    12 oz. granulated sugar
    1/2 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
    1/2 tsp. baking soda

    Place butter in the bowl of a standing mixture, and beat until smooth and creamy. Transfer to a mixing bowl, and set aside.  Combine sugar, eggs and egg yolk in the bowl of a standing mixer, and whisk until pale yellow and slightly thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Sift the flour and baking powder, and gently fold the flour into egg mixture into the butter.  Fold the one-third of the flour and egg mixture into the butter. Fold the remaining mixture into the butter, a little at a time, careful not to over mix.  Gently fold in vanilla. Allow the batter to rest for 30 minutes.

    Preheat the oven to 475º. Lightly grease Madeleine molds with vegetable cooking spray. Spoon some flour into each mold and shake the mold to evenly coat with flour. Tap out excess flour.  Add 5 tsp. into each shell mold. Bake on the bottom oven rack until the madeleines are golden on top and lightly browned around the edges, about 8-10 minutes. Unmold the cookies, and transfer to a wire rack, hump side down. Allow to cool to room temperature.

    For the Dulce De Leche:
    Combine milk and sugar in a large, stainless steel saucepan. Scrape the vanilla bean seeds into the milk mixture. Add the vanilla bean pods, and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat. Whisk in baking soda. Once simmering, reduce heat to medium -low and allow mixture to simmer slowly for 1 hour, skimming off foam occasionally. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pods and continue to simmer until the mixture is reduced to about 1 1/3 cups. It is important not to stir the milk mixture while simmering and to make sure the milk simmers over very low heat. Remove the sauce from heat, and serve warm with madeleines.

    (Makes about 24 madeleines and 1 1/3 cups sauce)


    Satterfield's Apple Beignets

             Satterfield's beignets are not only a time-honored Birmingham classic; they are also personal favorites of owner Becky Satterfield. "When I designed the dessert menu, I wanted to feature a dessert that was distinctly Southern yet transcends seasons," she says. So Becky's beignets are a little New Orleans, a little Christmas, and a top pick.

    Recipe:
    4 1/2 cups organic all-purpose flour
    3 tsp. salt
    2 T. dried yeast
    3/4 cup plus 8 T. sugar
    1 1/2 cups of whole milk
    1 cup water
    2 2/3 cups, plus 1 tsp. unsalted butter, slightly softened
    2 Grannie Smith  apples, peeled and diced into 1/2'' x 1/2'' squares
    1 tsp. plus a pinch of cinnamon
    Confectioner's sugar to taste

    Combine the flour, salt, yeast, 3/4 cup of sugar, milk and water, then knead in butter (less one teaspoon). Place the dough in the refrigerator to rise for 4-6 hours. Roll the dough out to 1/2-inch thick. Cut into 1 x 3 inch triangles. Carefully place in oil or fryer at 350º. Fry for 2-3 minutes, rotating periodically. Combine 6 tablespoons of sugar and the pinch of cinnamon in a shallow dish; set aside. Remove the beignets from the oil and roll them in the cinnamon sugar mixture.

    Sauté the apples in the remaining butter, sugar, and cinnamon over medium heat until tender and fragrant. Spoon some of the warm apples onto the center of a plate, and place the beignets on top. Dust the dessert with confectioner's sugar to taste, and serve.

    by Abigail Millwood 

    Leave a Comment
Pages : 1 2 3